WHAT ARE PRODUCTS FOR? (hint, it’s not what you think)
Products are often marketed to us as what keeps our hair hydrated and healthy, but that is not actually what products do.
Hydration is what controls frizz and keeps hair healthy, but the only place hydration comes from is WATER.
When you break down haircare centering water, not product, it all makes a lot more sense. I think of it like this…
Shampoo “opens the door” to water. It does so by removing the barriers to moisture like oil and buildup from product or environment (oil repels water). (Note: This is also why I do not recommend co-washing or conditioner cleansing). I look for shampoo to leave my hair “naked” but soft, not stripped dry. How often you shampoo, to me, depends on how you want your hair to present itself and when it looks its best. Generally this means every 3-10 days, but it varies for everyone.
Conditioner “closes the door” on water. Conditioner usually has a slightly more acidic PH than shampoo, which closes the cuticle, smoothing the hair, trapping the water inside, and having emollients to add slip to prevent breakage when detangling. I look for conditioner to leave my hair with slip and smoothness for easy detangling, but not weighed down.
Styling Products “lock the door” on water, either preventing it from leaving (dryness) or blocking it from coming In (humidity). How strong of a lock is what differentiates product.
HOW TO CHOOSE A PRODUCT?
The choice of styling product is actually based on desired finish and how much hold or volume you want to have.
Per the analolgy above, Do you want to have a latch or a deadbolt?
Creams and leave in conditioners have the least amount of hold and frizz control, but the softest finish. Volume will depend on whether they are heavy or light.
Gels have the most amount of hold and frizz control, but a “harder” finish in process. However, a good gel will only be crunchy in progress. Once the hair has dried, you “break the cast” of the gel and your hair will be well defined but soft to the touch. Volume will be low while setting, but can be brought back when dry.
Mousses (foams) fall somewhere in between. More hold than a cream. More volume than a gel.
WHAT INGREDIENTS TO LOOK FOR?
Most products are a combination of humectants and sealing agents.
A humectant is an ingredient that attracts water and draws it in to deeply hydrate hair. Examples of humectants are glycerin, aloe, and flaxseed.
Sealants trap the water in to minimize it coming in (think of how humidity affects your hair) or going out (think of how dry air affects your hair) when you don’t want it to. Examples are oils and filming agents.
I only use products that are free of “parfum” or syntheic fragrance. Why? Ever wonder why perfume scent is so much bigger and longer lasting than an essential oil? It is unfortunately probably due to an ingredient that is either carcinogenic or disruptive to hormones, like a phthalate. Legally, fragrance formulas are considered proprietary and do not have to be disclosed, so often some pretty nasty stuff can be lurking in there.
I personally don’t care if all ingredients are 100% natural, as long as they are not toxic to your body or the environment. I do this by checking each ingredient on EWG (the environmental working group).
The final thing to check for is if you are allergic to something. People can be allergic to all natural things, so it may not be “toxic” in a general sense, but may be toxic to you if you are allergic.
I share this basic science behind product choices because I think it’s easier to have success with an application if we know WHY we are doing what we are doing. Also, to give you all the freedom to find your own favorite products, knowing the logic behind what to look for. Credit to my education with @Cutitkinky for this knowledge that applies to all hair types and textures.
HOLY GRAIL PRODUCT LIST
I don’t sell product, so this is not a marketing pitch, and I’m brand agnostic, so this list is ever changing as I try and discover new things. Stay tuned for the latest and greatest.
This list is organized from light hold to strong hold. I also cocktail and layer these in different ways to get different results.
HAIR OIL: LA TIERRA SAGRADA JOJOBA OIL
Jojoba oil is a sealing oil, not a penetrating oil, which is important. You don’t want an oil to actually penetrate your hair shaft because it makes it waterproof (remember that oil repels water). Jojoba oil is the closest oil in nature to the natural oils of your scalp. Jojoba oil, like sebum, does not penetrate the hair shaft, but performs on the outside of the hair strand as a sealant against moisture loss. It has zero hold, but is great for shine and separation. A little goes a long way…a drop too much will make your hair look greasy. Start with just a few drops on your ends (you don’t need it at your root where your natural oils do the job).
Click on the link in bold text here to get it at latierrasagradahair.com
LEAVE IN CONDITIONER: CURL PERFECTING LEAVE IN CONDITIONER
Created by stylist and curl expert Stephanie Mero, the Curl Perfecting Leave-In Conditioner is a multi-tasking leave-in cream that detangles, conditions, and protects curls with intense nutrients for healthy hair. You don’t have to have curls to use it!
Click on the link in bold text here to get it at www.holistichairtribe.com.
LIGHT HOLD HAIR CREAM: SPARROW FOR EVERYONE, THE HAIR CREAM
The Hair Cream is the lightest weight defining product I have ever used, is great for detangling, and dries really soft. Great for air drying or blowouts. Will not weigh fine hair down! Spread it out in your hands and apply on wet hair after wringing out your conditioner using whatever method you prefer. Brush through hair to detangle and distribute. Form your hair with your hands into the shapes you want. Vegan and gluten free. Allergy tested for sensitive skin. The original has a barely-there scent of bergamot, lavender, vetiver, and black pepper, but is also now available in unscented. Woman owned business out of Chicago, Illinois (Susan, the owner, is actually my good friend!)
Click on the link in bold text here to get it at sparrowforeveryone.com, discount code: COURTNEYRICE
LIGHT HOLD BEACH SPRAY: RABBIT BRUSH GOODS, SHAG SPRAY
This is an extremely light “barely there” salt spray. Shag spray has low hold so it doesn’t dry “sticky”, even when used to refresh hair after it’s dry. It’s great at imparting a little texture and separation. My favorite scents are the Cedar Rose and Citrus Sage, but it is available in unscented as well. A woman-owned business out of Portland, Oregon.
Click on the link in bold text here to get it at www.rabbitbrushgoods.com, discount code: SUNDAYMORNING
WASH DAY BEACH SPRAY: RAHUA, ENCHANTED ISLAND Salt Spray
This salt spray is to be used on WET hair at the root to impart volume. Usage note: It foams up like a mousse when sprayed, so don’t worry, you haven’t used to much! Your purchase supports The Pink Flamingo Project, which is working to protect and preserve many miles of Galapagos coastal areas by working with locals to clean coastline and beaches of thousands of plastic bottles and plastic entrapment fibers that wash ashore. This work is keeping vital habitats and nesting grounds clean for flamingos, penguins, marine iguanas, sea birds and more.
Click on the link in bold text here to get it at www.rahua.com
HIGH HOLD BEACH SPRAY: Josh ROSEBROOK, LIFT SPRAY
The first clean beauty product I found that really worked! I will love this product forever. Josh Rosebrook Lift Spray has higher hold and creates more of a “cast” for stronger moisture retention and definition. It uses yucca starch instead of salt to impart texture without drying out hair, and is formulated for people with allergy sensitivities. Can be used on wash day on wet hair or as a refresher on dry hair. Usage note: It is a little sticky until dry, and has a stiffer finish once dry. Once dry you just “break the cast” for perfectly tousled waves, or redefined curls, with no stiffness or stickiness at all. Also great to use with a blowout to get volume (the starches expand under the heat of the dryer). Josh has always been a fighter for animal rights and supporter of the LGBTQ+ community. He got his start as a hairdresser right here in LA before he gave it all up to make products for people with sensitive skin issues like him.
Click on the link in bold text here to get it at www.joshrosebrook.com
MEDIUM HOLD CREAM: AFTERWORLD ORGANICS, volume CREAM
An abundance of humectants can be found in Volume Cream, including glycerin, honey, and hydrolyzed quinoa protein amongst others, to draw water deeper into the hair. Hydrolyzed quinoa also is loaded with essential fatty and amino acids that reduce water loss, fortify strands, protect against heat styling, and balance sebum. Nutrient dense and anti-inflammatory marshmallow root extract is chock full of healthy nutrients being absorbed by your hair as well. Think of this product like a cream version of a mousse. Very lightweight so it will not weigh hair down. Spread it out in your hands and apply to wet hair after wringing out your conditioner using whatever method you choose. Add a little more water to the hair after the product has been added and squish the product further into the hair. From its origins, Afterworld has been a huge supporters of LGBTQ+ people and rights, and was created by a hairdresser, so the performance is based on real life experience.
Click on the link in bold text to get it at afterworldorganics.com, discount code: HAIRLUST
FOAM / MOUSSE: INNERSENSE, I CREATE LIFT VOLUMIZING FOAM
Great for curls and waves seeking a little more definition and frizz control than you can get from a cream, and more volume than you can get from a gel. Distribute through the hair when wet. A slightly stiff light cast will form as it dries. Once dry, simply scrunch for a soft but defined finish. Great for volume with blowouts as well.
Click on the link in bold text to get it at www.innersensebeauty.com
LIGHT HOLD GEL:
INnersense, I create volume
I Create Volume is a lightweight flexible hold gel. It is very fluid and easy to work through the hair, and I’ve noticed it also helps the set dry faster because it is not heavy. This is why I typically use it as a secondary topper gel (a second layer I apply after using a base gel on tight curls). Do not be afraid of the crunchy feel while drying. It is serving the purpose of trapping all that water and moisture in your hair while blocking the weather out. Break the crunchy feel of the cast once dry with a simple scrunch of the hand for soft but well defined hair.
Click on the link in bold text to get it at www.innersensebeauty.com
MEDIUM HOLD GEL for waves, loose curls, coarse hair:
afterworld MOISTURE LOCK SMOOTHING SERUM
A versatile, silicone-free, shape defining serum with memory, Moisture Lock works for all hair types - as a gel on curly hair, and as a blow-dry tool on straight hair. This natural, leave-in hydrator utilizes a powerful, vegan moisturizing plant fiber extract (polyquat-10) to eliminate frizz and add hold and shine to curls. Don’t let the fancy ingredient name fool ya, polyquat-10 is made from natural plant polymers (such as cellulose, guar or chitosan for example) and is classified as only a 1 on EWG…the lowest toxicity rating you can get meaning polyquat-10 is not harmful to the envirmonment or toxic to your body! Plus, unlike some polyquats, this one is super lowtox and does not build up on the hair either. Like all gels, it works by forming a light “cast” or film over the wet hair, holding the shape and trapping or “locking” in the water (hence the name, Moisture Lock). Finished with the light woodsy-floral scent of cedarwood meets geranium. Apply wet and scrunch out once dry. Do not be afraid of the slight crunch of the cast while drying. This is called the “cast”. It is serving the purpose of trapping all that water and moisture in your hair while blocking the weather out. Break the crunchy feel of the cast once dry with a simple scrunch of the hand for soft but well defined hair.
Click on the link in bold text to get it at afterworldorganics.com, discount code: HAIRLUST
HIGH HOLD for TIGHT or coarse curls:
CURLMIX, ULTRA HOLD UNSCENTED QUINOA GEL
Curlmix is a Black-owned and Woman-owned clean beauty maker. Curlmix Ultra Hold Quinoa gel utilizes a number of ingredients to draw and seal water into the hair:
-Hydrolized Quinoa Protien: “The humectants in quinoa seed oil attract moisture from the air, making it an excellent source of hydration for your scalp and strands. The essential fatty and acids in quinoa extract known to reduce water loss, which then retains that moisture, resulting in hair with a softer, silkier quality overall. The amino acids and protien content in quinoa extract actually deliver on diverse benefits; some penetrate into the hair to fortify strands and repair, while others within the same ingredient act as a barrier to protect the hair from environmental stress and heat styling. Additionally, because the hydrolyzed quinoa protein molecule is very small, it can penetrate low-porosity hair and provide needed moisture beneath the cuticle. But it also works beautifully for those with high-porosity hair who lose moisture quickly from strands and can benefit from the flexible film coating hair that traps moisture in and releases it slowly. Finally, it is known to aid in the balance of sebum control, therefore helping to reduce the appearance of acne from face to scalp.” - https://www.byrdie.com/quinoa-extract-for-hair
-Modified corn start and glycerin: well known humectants to draw water in.
-Heptyl Glucoside: “Heptyl glucoside is COSMOS & Ecocert certified and easily biodegradable ingredient derived from renewable botanical raw materials for eco-friendly personal care products.” It helps all these ingredients mix together increases absorption and permeability. - https://inci.guide/glucosides/heptyl-glucoside
Spread gel in hands and apply to soaking wet hair after conditioning and detangling from roots to ends. Add a little more water to the hair after applying and squish what you just added further into the hair.
Click on the link in bold text to get it at www.curlmix.com
FAVE ALL PURPOSE Shampoo / conditioner:
INTELLIGENT NUTRIENTS INSPIRAMINT
Click on the link in bold text here to get the shampoo at www.intelligentnutrients.com and here to get the conditioner at www.intelligentnutrients.com
FAVE Shampoo / conditioner for ultra coarse or tight curls:
Innersense hydrating
Click on the link in bold text here to get the shampoo at www.innersensebeauty.com and here to get the conditioner at www.innersensebeauty.com
FAVE Shampoo AND CONDITIONER BAR for the plastic PACKAGING conscious:
Good JUJU CURLy HAIR SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER BAR
Bars tend to be less hydrating than liquid, so I recommend the curly option for all hair types, even if your hair isn’t curly, because it will be the most hydrating.
Click on the link in bold text here to get it at hellogoodjuju.com
A note on Cream Cleansers:
Cream cleansers are a one-step, low lather, very gentle cleanse that will not strip oils from your hair. (Examples are New Wash by Hairstory and Hair Glow by Afterworld Organics). Here’s the deal…I am not into cream cleansers. I only recommend them in specific cases:
people who like to wash their hair every day because they sweat or work out alot
people who have platinum bleached hair with fashion tones because it will not strip the color
Here’s why I don’t use them. It all comes back again to water. Oil repels water. No matter what a brand’s marketing tells you about never having to wash your hair, I have observed from experience that oily buildup, be it from nature, or product, or environment, forms on the hair over time with clients who only cream cleanse or never shampoo their hair…which then becomes a barrier to the actual hydration the hair needs (reminder…oil repels water, and hydration comes from water alone).
If you’ve been using a cream cleanser for a while and noticed that it started out great but over time your hair started feeling a little waxy looking on the outside, but dry on the inside, that’s what is happening. The scalp and hair that is blocked from absorbing water and nutrients that it needs to be healthy, nourished, and hydrated. Over time it can result in scalp irritation, flaking, or in the worst case, reduced strand diameter if the follicle becomes suffocated.
If this sounds like you…you are not alone. But the good news is, all you need to do is wash your hair with a good old fashioned shampoo followed by conditioner!
EASY ACCESS ALTERNATIVES
Whether you wanna just be able to grab a product on-the-go, or are on an extra tight budget, the options below can meet your needs. All are cruelty free, lower-tox relative to alternative over-the-counter products on the shelf, and at least use “natural” fragrance (it is very hard to find over-the-counter products without it). I have both tested the performance and vetted the ingredients of them all.
SHAMPOO / CONDITIONER -
Eden Bodyworks Clarifying Shampoo and Detangling Conditioner, available at Sallys or online, $10. Almost all clean ingredients. Black-owned business. A very minty tingly deep clean balanced with a very hydrating conditioner. Leaves my hair and scalp very happy. *note: Although the shampoo is labeled clarifying, but is actually a regular use shampoo. The Eden PH is actually around 5.5-6.5, which is pretty close to the natural PH of hair (4.5-5.5), v.s. a professional clarifying which is around 9. So don’t worry…this isn’t going to be too rough on the hair). Plus the accompanying conditioner is so wonderful…when used together it is a perfect cocktail of a through cleanse with a deep condition.
CREAM
Pacifica Salty Waves Beach Hair Balm, available at Target or Whole Foods, $12.
Use similarly to: Sparrow For Everyone Hair Cream or Afterworld Organics Volume Cream
LIGHT HOLD GEL
*still searching for it. While I’m searching you could use my foam/mousse substitute listed below.
Use similarly to: Afterworld Mositure Lock or Innersense I Create Volume Gel
HIGH HOLD GEL
Uncle Funkees Curly Magic, available at Target, $12.
Use similarly to: Curlmix Ultra Hold Flaxseed Gel
FOAM / MOUSSE
Giovanni Hair Styling Foam, available at Whole Foods, $9.
Use similarly to Innersense I Create Lift Foam, Afterworld Organics Moisture Lock Serum, or Innersense I Create Volume Gel
HIGH HOLD GEL
Uncle Funkees Curly Magic, available at Target, $12.
Use similarly to: Curlmix Ultra Hold Flaxseed Gel
BEACHY SALT SPRAY -
Captain Blankenship Mermaid Sea Salt Hair Spray, available at Detox Market and select Whole Foods, $14.
Use similarly to Josh Rosebrook Lift Spray or Rabbit Brush Goods Shag Spray
HAIR OIL -
Trader Joes Jojoba Oil, available at Trader Joes, $8.
Use similarly to Tierra Sagrada Jojoba OIl